Is the spot thirsty, or is the water not getting in? That question decides the fix. A Washington State University Extension lawn guide, written for lawns in general and not for Florida, says dry spots that stay brown often come from dry, water-repellent thatch or from runoff off high spots. UF/IFAS, the Florida extension service, says to find what killed a dead area before you patch it. Do that soon: chinch bugs can turn heavily infested St. Augustinegrass from yellow to dark brown quickly, while UF/IFAS says fairy rings do no long-term damage.
For a Tampa price, ask for a written, itemized price after the crew walks your Tampa yard and measures it.
Why a watered spot stays brown
Check these four conditions first when one patch stays brown after watering.
Water-repellent soil or dry thatch
In a lawn on water-repellent (hydrophobic) soil or dry thatch, grass can stay brown even when watered. The WSU guide says non-ionic wetting agents help water soak in, that household detergents should not be used, and that wetting agents do little on badly compacted soil. Many Tampa yards sit on sandy soil that UF/IFAS says does not hold water well, and the city allows one lawn watering a week, so water that does not soak in waits for the next watering day or a rain.
Runoff off high spots
The same guide names runoff off high spots. A brown patch on a rise or a slope may be shedding the water you give it. With lawn watering limited to one day a week in Tampa, water that runs off a high spot is not made up until the next watering day or a rain. Tell the crew where the patch sits compared with the rest of the yard.
Compacted, sandy soil
UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions says North and Central Florida soils are typically very sandy and do not hold water or nutrients well. A UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County post says urban development in Tampa and Hillsborough County often leaves compacted, nutrient-poor sandy soil. UF/IFAS says compacted soil usually comes from heavy foot or vehicle traffic and is common around newly built homes, and that it leads to shallow roots and poor drainage. Our page on compacted lawn soil goes through it in detail.
A thick thatch mat
UF/IFAS says too much water or fertilizer and wrong mowing make grass build a thick, spongy mat called thatch, which causes serious problems in Florida lawns. It also says zoysiagrass has a tendency to build thatch. We cover thick thatch in lawn on its own page.
Problems that look like a dry spot
Not every dry-looking spot is a water problem. Before patching dead areas, UF/IFAS says, check the sprinklers for missed or overwatered spots and look for insects or disease. These are the ones to rule out.
Chinch bugs in St. Augustinegrass
UF/IFAS calls chinch bugs the most difficult pest of St. Augustinegrass. Their damage shows as yellow to brown patches. Heavily infested grass turns yellow first, then quickly dark brown, and the center can go dead and bare. Injury usually shows first in grass that is water-stressed or in full sun. Poor sprinkler coverage, mowing too short, too much nitrogen and thatch build-up all invite them.
Grubs and mole crickets
UF/IFAS says mild white grub damage leaves turf yellow and is hard to diagnose, while major damage leaves large areas of dead turf. The WSU guide, again a general one, says grubs eat roots until large pieces of lawn lift freely from the ground, though they are not very common at pest levels. UF/IFAS says mole crickets tunnel through roots, and that tunnels are a sign in bahiagrass lawns.
Large patch fungus
Large patch, per UF/IFAS, starts as round, discolored patches that grow. The edges are darker, sometimes orange, where the fungus is active, and the center is brown and sunken. It shows up mostly when temperatures drop below 80 degrees, usually November to May in Florida. Moisture is the main driver: heavy watering, rain and humidity.
Fairy rings
UF/IFAS Extension Charlotte County says fairy rings come from fungi feeding on buried organic matter such as old stumps, lumber and leaves. It says they do no long-term damage to a lawn, and it advises a wetting agent for water-repellent rings. Treat the mushrooms as poisonous and remove them so children and pets do not eat them.
Local rules
Checks to run and Tampa's watering rules
What you can check yourself
These checks come from UF/IFAS and WSU guidance.
- Push a tool into the soil. UF/IFAS says that if you struggle to push it more than a few inches in, the root zone is likely compacted.
- Look at the edge between brown and green grass for tiny black-and-white adults or orange nymphs. UF/IFAS also suggests vacuuming about 1 square foot of that edge and dumping it on white paper.
- Pour soapy water over a few square feet of turf. UF/IFAS says this brings mole crickets up so you can count them.
- Run the sprinklers on your watering day, inside the allowed hours, and look for spots they miss or flood.
- Look at the shape. Round patches with darker edges and a sunken brown center match the large patch description above.
What not to do
Do not treat the whole lawn for a disease: UF/IFAS says fungicides can be used preventively for a disease that keeps coming back, but only on areas with a known problem. In Tampa, lawn fertilizer with nitrogen or phosphorus may not be applied from June 1 to September 30, so a green-up feeding is off the table in summer. UF/IFAS Extension Martin County says anyone applying pesticide to lawns for hire must hold their own FDACS certification or work under a licensed Lawn and Ornamental operator. Ask who will apply any weed or pest treatment and which state licence they hold.
Tampa's watering rules and your dry spot
The City of Tampa Water Department allows water customers to water lawns once a week, on a day set by the last digit of the house number: 0 or 1 Monday, 2 or 3 Tuesday, 4 or 5 Wednesday, 6 or 7 Thursday, 8 or 9 Friday. Mixed and no-address properties water Friday. Lawn watering is allowed only from midnight to 4 a.m. or 8 p.m. to 11:59 p.m., never between 4 a.m. and 8 p.m. Hand watering of lawns follows the designated day, while hand watering and micro-irrigation of plant beds is allowed any day but not between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m.
These are the city's Modified Phase III restrictions, effective April 3, 2026. Hillsborough County says the regional one-day-a-week order runs until March 31, 2027, and the Southwest Florida Water Management District says the limits apply to everyone, including homes on private wells. Breaking Tampa's watering rules can bring fines up to $500 and a mandatory court appearance. Reclaimed water used for irrigation in Tampa is generally not subject to the restrictions, though customers must still avoid wasteful use.
So watering a stubborn spot every day is not an option, and the cause matters more. UF/IFAS FAWN says 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water a week is generally the most a home lawn or landscape needs in the hottest part of the year; that is a ceiling, not a target. After 0.3 inch of rain in 24 hours, or 1 inch in 3 days, irrigation may not be needed that day.
NOAA's normals for Tampa International Airport give the weather these spots sit in. The city averages 49.48 inches of rain a year, with 30.24 inches, about 61%, falling from June through September. November is the driest month, with 1.40 inches in a normal year. Tampa also has about 94 days a year at 90°F or hotter.
Check the current rule with the official source: tampa.gov
Cost
What the fix involves and what it costs
These are the fixes the extension guides give, by cause.
- Water-repellent soil or thatch: a non-ionic wetting agent, per the WSU guide.
- Compacted soil: UF/IFAS lists tilling, plug aeration, air tilling and adding compost. The right one depends on how compacted the soil is and the budget.
- Thatch: UF/IFAS says to use a vertical mower and water afterward. It names sand topdressing as the best biological control and says core aeration helps prevent thatch.
- Dead patch: remove the dead turf and fill with plugs, sprigs or sod, per UF/IFAS.
- Wide damage: replace those areas with a different grass or another plant rather than patching. The Hillsborough County extension office puts the line at 30% or more weeds, bare spots or damage.
If the patch gets re-sodded
UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County says never to lay sod over existing weeds and grass, and to rototill compacted soil 6 to 8 inches deep first. UF/IFAS says to lay sod within 24 hours of delivery and to water it lightly but often for the first 2 to 3 weeks, then taper off once it roots. New sod in Tampa still may not be watered between 4 a.m. and 8 p.m. The city points to the UF/IFAS 30-day establishment schedule, then normal days apply. Wait 3 to 4 weeks before the first mow and 30 to 60 days before fertilizing. UF/IFAS says bahiagrass has better drought tolerance than other Florida lawn grasses. Ask us which grass suits your yard's sun and water before you re-sod after chinch bug damage.
National cost figures
The table lists national figures. Our landscaping cost guide shows how a written price comes together.
| Item | National figure | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Sod, material only | $0.31 to $0.82 per square foot | This Old House, updated June 2026 |
| Hydroseeding | $0.06 to $0.20 per square foot | This Old House, updated June 2026 |
| Labor for planting trees, shrubs, flowers or grass | $50 to $150 an hour | Bob Vila, 2023 |
| Sprinkler maintenance | $75 to $85 a year | Bob Vila, 2024 |
| Rain sensor for a sprinkler system | $10 to $100 | Bob Vila, 2024 |
| Smart, water-saving sprinkler controller | $200 to $500 | Bob Vila, 2024 |
| New sprinkler system, quarter-acre lot | $1,679 to $3,541, average $2,540 | Bob Vila, 2024 |
Bahiagrass and bermudagrass are the best Florida lawn grasses to start from seed, according to UF/IFAS, so hydroseeding only fits those. St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass go in as sod or plugs. Florida law requires every automatic lawn sprinkler system to have working technology that stops it when there is enough moisture, and a licensed contractor working on a system must test it and fix or add one.
When you compare written prices, ask what each one lists for the patch area, soil work, grass and sprinkler changes. Ask for a written start date and finish date with the quote.
FAQ
Why do I see brown spots despite watering?
The water may not be soaking in, or something other than thirst may be hurting the grass. The WSU guide points to water-repellent thatch and runoff off high spots, and UF/IFAS says to rule out missed sprinkler spots, insects and disease before patching.
Can I just water the spot more often in Tampa?
No. The City of Tampa Water Department lets water customers water lawns once a week, on the day set by the last digit of the house number, and fines run up to $500. Reclaimed water used for irrigation is generally not subject to the restrictions, though wasteful use is still not allowed.
Can I use dish soap as a wetting agent?
No. Household detergents should not be used; the WSU extension guide calls for non-ionic wetting agents.
Will a wetting agent fix compacted soil?
Not on its own. Wetting agents do little on badly compacted soil, according to WSU, and UF/IFAS lists tilling, plug aeration, air tilling and adding compost as fixes for compaction.
When should I replace the grass instead of patching?
Once 30% or more of the lawn is weeds, bare spots or damage, the Hillsborough County extension office advises replacing the lawn. For smaller dead areas, the Florida guidance is to remove the dead turf and fill with plugs, sprigs or sod.
What happens after I call about a dry spot in Tampa?
You get a call back from Tampa Landscaping Pros within one business day. The crew then comes out and measures, and a written price reaches you before any work starts. When the job needs a City of Tampa permit, we pull it.
Cost
Get a written price for your Tampa lawn
Call or send the form on our contact page. The Better Business Bureau says a company that quotes without seeing the yard cannot know what it needs.